CROSSMAN CORPORATION
BENJAMIN SHERIDEN
Routes 5&20
East BloomField, N.Y. 14443
(716)657-6161
FAX (716)657-5405

1. UPGRADES
   1. GOING 'STOCK'

      I just want to make this note about a stock VM. A stock VM is a fine gun. The only reason 'mag owners, and 'cocker owners make fun of it is that they paid $1000+ for their guns, and are jealous that some newbies $200 gun is just as good!

       

      1. --Price List for STOCK PARTS.
         --Prices and availability are subject to change (which is likely since this list is old).
         
         

         VM-68 PARTS AND PRICE LIST

         	REF NO. PART. NO.	PART NAME	PRICE
         1	VMX-AO1	RECEIVER ASSEMBLY	$184.40
         2	VMX-111	AIR CHAMBER ASSEMBLY	$12.70
         3	VMX-121	EXHAUST VALVE ASSEMBLY	$6.25
         4	VMX-200	BARREL ASSEMBLY	$8.50
         5	VMX-241A	UPPER BOLT ASSEMBLY	$12.00
         6	VMX-251A	LOWER BOLT ASSEMBLY	$38.00
         7	VMX-9011	TRIGGER ASSEMBLY	$51.80
         8	F503	AIR VALVE SPRING	$0.50
         9	VMS-003	BARREL RETAINING NUT	$6.50
         10	VMS-102	SCREW	$0.85
         11	VMS-103	LOCK WASHER	$0.25
         12	VMS-201A	BOLT CONNECTING PIN	$3.50
         13	VMS-231	UPPER BOLT O-RING	$1.35
         14	VMS-252	LOWER BOLT O-RING	$1.10
         15	VMS-257A	SAFETY SLEEVE	$1.80
         16	VMS-258	SAFETY FASTENER	$0.25
         17	VMS-403	LOWER BOLT PLUG	$8.00
         18	VMS-404	UPPER BOLT PLUG	$5.30
         19	VMS-405	PLUG RETAINING BLOT	$0.45
         20	VMS-406	LOCK WASHER	$0.25
         21	VMS-502	SCREW	$0.40
         22	VMS-503	SCREW	$0.65
         23	VMS-510	PISTOL GRIP	$11.50
         24	VMS-520	SCREW	$0.35
         25	VMS-601	BALL FEED ADAPTOR	$28.50
         26	VMS-603	BALL RETAINER	$0.90
         27	VMS-604	BALL FEED SPACER	$0.85
         28	VMS-605	BALL FEED FINGER PLATE	$1.85
         29	VMS-606	SCREW	$0.35
         30	VMS-610	BALL FEED FASTENER	$2.50
         31	VMS-700	MAIN SPRING	$3.15
         32	VMS-701	MAIN SPRING GUIDE	$0.40
         33	VMS-800	MONO POD	$11.50
         34	P911	BALL INSERT TUBE- 45	$4.70
         35	VMS-5010	GRIP LUG	$11.85
         36	PT-418	VEL. BOLT DETENT BALL	$11.85
         37	P700	FRONT SIGHT	$0.85
         38	CH4	O-RING	$2.50
         39	VMT-T01	VELOCITY ADJ. TOOL	$6.90

          

         Use the address for Sheriden to order these parts or go through a local dealer. The later is advisable since Crossman prefers dealing with with retailers over customers.

   2. BARRELS

       

      1. General/Stock
         Paintball barrel design is a center of huge debate. Some believe that different barrels affect accuracy and range differently. Other believes that all barrels perform nearly identical. For the purpose of this FAQ, I will only cover the barrels which I have personally used and tested. I will use terms such as "Turbulence," "distortion," and "wobble" which are all HIGHLY debated.

         I will just say this once. The stock VM barrel is garbage (except the Magnum barrel). The finish is always poor, and brass barrels get scratched VERY easily. Plus, the ID is .690 which is way to tight for big bore paint (ie Nelson, Bullseye). However, the STOCK barrel can be easily modified to shoot good. All it really needs is to be bored to .692 and honed/polished. A good honing kit will do both. An airsmith can also hone the barrel for you, but it might actually cost less to simply buy a new one.

         For the most part, any barrel is a good replacement over the stock barrel. From my experiences, for best performance a VM barrel should have these 3 characteristics:

          

         1. External Rifling- Studies have shown that blowbacks (like the VM) work best with external rifling because they port the highly turbulent gas inherent to blowbacks.
         2. Medium to Large bore- The high pressure blast of a VM distorts the paintball, and is less likely to break in the barrel with a larger bore (internal diameter). Between .692-.696 is recommended.
         3. Barrel length 14-16"- It was discovered a few years ago that the most efficient length of a paintball barrel was 14". Anything above or below that would be wasting CO2. However, with external rifling and/or siphon tanks, its more efficient to use a 16" barrel (for less "wobble").

          

      2. SP
         Smart Parts barrels are considered the best barrels for the VM. Smart Parts uses a special externally rifled barrel designed to reduce turbulence around the ball, keeping the ball stable, thus providing more range and accuracy. Lately there has been a lot of fuss over SP barrels. Many 'mag and 'cocker owners didn't see the same results when they put the SP barrels on their new fancy semis. This is because 'Mags and 'Cockers have less turbulent air, however blowbacks, like VMs, have lots of turbulence, hence a SP barrel. SP barrels made within the last few years all have a NEW teflon coating which is believed to increase accuracy, but many believe that it hurts range. This may or may not be true, but the teflon can be removed by soaking the barrel in ammonia based cleaners or solvents. Modern SP barrels come in a variety of shapes, including their new 'tear' drop rifled barrels. The average price is ~$50-125, and are my pick for the best barrels for a VM. Keep in mind that SP barrels lower the velocity 30-50fps, as with all externally rifled barrels, and are very difficult to clean when a ball is broken, but greatly reduce barrel noise.

          

      3. J&J
         J&J barrels have come along way. 4 years ago, J&J barrels were considered low quality. But in the last 2 years, they have made some leaps. IMO, top of the line J&J barrels are the second best barrel that money can buy, and perhaps the best for closed- bolt guns. (I mean the externally rifled, HARD CHROME plated, brass w/ muzzle break). J&J also makes smoothbore (to any ID), plain brass, and internally rifled. You can even get J&J barrels with SP rifling. The HARD CHROME barrels are nice because they are impossible to scratch. These run ~$75-80 for rifled. $25-35 for smoothbore, and an extra ~$25 for Hard chromed.

         I have heard that some J&J barrels do not fit properly into the VM. Either they don't screw in all the way or come loose (and fall out) while firing. This is probably true, considering what I hear about J&J's quality control. If you ever get a bad J&J barrel, simply return it and ask for another (scream a little, maybe you'll get it for free).

         Plus, early J&J barrels did NOT screw in. They required the barrel brace that is used on the stock barrel. However, if you send it to J&J, they will modify the barrel, so that it threads in. (NOTE: they did ask me to cover return-shipping).

          

      4. ARMSON
         PCRI rated Armson barrels to be more accurate than any other, when tested on a 'Cocker and 'Mag. Armson barrels are internally rifled, based on a similar scheme used in muzzle-loading firearms. Unlike mags/cockers they don't work as well on a VM. However, they do still work very well. But, as with all INTERNALLY rifled barrels, they are very sensitive to PAINT. Unlike SP barrels, Armson barrels do not lower velocity, and are easier to clean. These run ~$85-99. BTW, ARMSON barrels are VERY loud on a VM (any gun for that matter). An ARMSON 'bark' is very distinct.

          

      5. LAPCO
         Lapco has become a leader in the barrel business. They also make a barrel adapter for VMs. The barrel adapter allows you to use any AutoCocker barrel with your VM. This means good things for VM owners. Manufactures have begun to neglect the VM, but with this adapter, you are now able to use a HUGE variety of barrels. Stainless, Carbon fiber, and Titanium barrels are now all available.

          

      6. OTHERS
         Everybody and their 3rd cousin makes barrels these days.  My advice is to buy quality name brand barrels. If possible, test a barrel before you buy it. Different barrels have different IDs (internal diameters), which are more friendly to different kinds of paint and climates. Other fine barrels include AUTOSPIRIT ,B.O.A., and Stainless STEEL barrels (like DYE), but I haven't seen these tested on a VM. If you can not afford a $100 barrel, smoothbore barrels (no rifling) are still an improvement over the stock barrel. Carter Machine and BudOrr makes FINE SMOOTHBORE barrels for ~$20-40. BTW, STEEL barrels are very heavy, so they might not be the best idea for the heaviest gun on the market.

          

   3. C/A

       

      1. SETUPS
         For some odd reason, ALL SHERIDEN guns take in CO2 from the front of the gun. (Piranhas, VM-EXC, and VM-Magnums don't count since they are custom versions of front-CO2 Sheriden's.) During the 12gram days, this was no problem. Unfortunately, the front-bottle system on the VM severely limits it. In the stock form, only a 7-12oz can be used.

         Fortunately, there are many options for bottle re-placement. The most common is BOTTOM-LINES. Plus there are also BACK-BOTTLE setups.  Both these have versions that allow for dual-bottle setups. Many VMs experience problems with screws loosening with back-bottles, you may need to use LOC-TOURNAMENT or LOC-TITE on the field strip screws. Plus, the bottle can be run on remote or the bottle can be retained in the frontal position, but at a 90 degree, or 45 degree angle. Still yet are intruder systems, which put the bottle on a bottom line, but on a frontal grip.

         The VM has more c/a setup options than ANY OTHER GUN. This allows the VM some freedom, as well as some distinct looks. All these allow the VM to use a CO2 bottle of 3-40oz. Most people opt for the bottom line, with an expansion chamber (like the Black-Rain). Bottle re-placement kits are usually inexpensive, around $30-50. You can also use on/off valves, filters, and quick disconnects. These little brass pieces can run from $5-$30. IMO filters are a waste of money, and I have NEVER HEARD of a VM going down because of dirty CO2.

          

      2. EFFICIENCY
         The most common complaint of the VM is its CO2 efficiency. A stock VM, with 7oz usually gets 100-220 shots from a 7oz. The large range in shots is due to weather, temp., and condition of the VM. This is hardly enough for a game, let alone for a whole day. Different setups can be used to allow for bigger or multiple bottles, but, special CO2 devices can be used to allow for 350-450 shots from a 7oz. These devices are expansion chambers, regulators and/or remotes.

          

         1. EXPANSION CHAMBERS
            Expansion chambers allow the CO2 to pre-expand before being used, thus more efficient. There is a number of different types, some do very little while others are very helpful. The most common is the original Black-Rain system (by AirAmerica), which can be setup in a BACK-BOTTLE (Terrorist) or BOTTOM-LINE setup. This is the best chamber, and most expensive at $100-$160. If you already have a DUAL-BOTTLE setup, and a 3oz (ie MAGNUM), COOPER-T makes a special valve, that fits on the 3oz, that turns it into an expansion chamber.  I hear this works well. Taso makes many different styles of CHAMBERS ranging from small ($20) to large ($100), all are quality devices. Avoid cheap small chambers, they're not worth the money. Also, a remote system also works as a partial expansion chamber. Warning running a remote and a E.C. together on your gun this will cause cycling problem for a remote acts as an E.C. so if you have a remote and a E.C. on you gun you are going to over expand the air which drops the psi in the gun so low that it will not cycle  

             

         2. REGULATORS
            Paintball regulators are basically the same that are on soda CO2 tanks and welding machines, but are more precise. They allow you to control the pressure of CO2 coming out of a tank, and keep that pressure level. This is useful because it keeps wasteful liquid from entering your VM, and keeps the operating pressure at the perfect point for a VM (550-650psi) instead of 900-1000psi. Using a regulator can also mean less ball breakage, due to the lower operating pressure. The best REG around is the AirAmerican UNIREG, but its also the most expensive, around $250. Other people make quality cheaper ones like Palmer Pursuits, Sheridan, and Paintball Mania Supplies. A regulator is a great idea if you plan on upgrading to NITROGEN in the future (since the REG is a must).

             

      3. SIPHON
         The one cure-all for velocity problems, cycling problems, cold weather problems, and consistent velocity problems is to use a SIPHON tank. Siphon tanks allow the VM to drink straight LIQUID CO2. This allows for a GREATER operating pressure. Most other blow- back semis use SIPHON tanks (ICON Z1/2, PROAM/Lite). The only drawback is efficiency. With a siphon, expect only 100-150 shots from a 7oz. This means a 20/32/40oz is a MUST. Although, if the VALVE it drilled out bigger, you'll get 130-175 shots from the 7oz. VMs CANNOT run on a SIPHON and EXPANSION chamber at the same time, as they are contradictions (people really ask me that). Plus, the VM will blow giant VAPOR clouds which impress the newbies (and give away your position). Make sure your VM was made after MAY 1992, as it may have the 'old' cup-seal. Siphon tanks are the same as regular PV tanks, except have a special $10-15 SIPHON VALVE. (TIPPMANN or TPI make the best). It should be noted that since running on a SIPHON means your velocity rises when rapid firing, you should crono this way, to get an accurate fps reading. NOTE: Most tournaments require you to chrono this way if you use SIPHON, which is a GOOD thing because its nearly IMPOSSIBLE to get a HOT shot if you chrono on 'liquid'.

          

      4. NITROGEN/HPA
         The VM can run on NITROGEN/HPA just like the 'mag. Many quality kits (ie expensive) will allow the VM to get nearly 1000 shots between fills. Running on NITROGEN has the same benefits that SIPHON tanks provide like stable velocity, and all-weather performance (without the cloud). Most NITRO kits run from about $200 (low pressure), to about $500 (High pressure). I should point out that NITROGEN is quickly becoming the choice of tournament players. Mostly because 'Cockers and 'Mags are sensitive to liquid CO2 (unlike the VM). So if you are worried about the availability of nitrogen in the future, I wouldn't worry. I predict all tournaments, and most fields will have NITROGEN capabilities in the near future.

         The VM is an UNUSUAL gun, in that it can run on an EXPANSION CHAMBER and NITROGEN like a 'mag or 'cocker, with great results. Plus also run on SIPHON like a ICON Z1/2 or PROAM/LITE also with good results. This ability makes the VM an EXCEPTIONAL paintball GUN.

          

   4. INTERNALS

       

      1. VALVE.
         
         1. Magna-Port/Turbo Valve.
            The Magna-Port valve is probably the most common replacement valve for the VM.  The valve was designed to improve cold weather performance. It does this by having only ONE large 'clock' hole bored much bigger than the 12 o'clock hole on the stock valve. This increases velocity. The recocking hole is also enlarged to increase cycling performance. This degrades efficiency by 10-15% over a stock VM and 30-45% over a VM with an expansion chamber. This valve is only useful if used in cold temperatures where siphon tanks are unavailable. Magna-Ports have been known to fit poorly in VMX's. The Magna-Port also comes with a delrin cupseal, which is supposed to last much longer.

             

         2. Tru-Flow valve.
            For the most part, the Tru-Flow valve is much like the Magna-Port valve. Both the recock jet and 12 o'clock hole are bigger than the stock valve. However, the holes are smaller than the Magna-Port. This was done to retain some efficiency, while still giving moderate cold weather performance.

             

         3. Carter/other.
            A lot of pro-shops make custom VM valves, which are all basically the same.  The #3 (smallest) hole is bored slightly larger then the #12 (largest) hole, and "Venturi-style" jets are drilled around the recocking jet to provide for better cycling, at the expense of efficiency. The Carter valves are the most common "custom" valves.

            Airgun Dynamics is also working on a new valve that will "really make a difference."

             

      2. CUP SEAL.
         Apart from 'new' style and 'old' style replacement cup seals, there is also the NELSON cup-seal for the VM. This clever aftermarket device uses a NELSON CUP-SEAL in your VM. This means that if your CUP- SEAL goes, you need only to get a replacement NELSON-based seal, and not the whole device like before. However, before using it, make sure that you use LOC-TITE on the PIN as you screw it into the cup-seal. When I first used mine, the PIN managed to work itself loose from the CUP-SEAL, jamming the GUN (in a GAME!!).

          

      3. BOLTS.
         
         1. DELRIN BOLTS
            Delrin BOLTS are made from DELRIN, a fancy plastic, and are light. They usually contain no o-rings, so expect more blow-back exhaust in the feed elbow. Cooper-T makes an unusual DELRIN bolt called Maximizer, designed to give the ball a backspin, and an extra 150' range. Results, though, are mixed. (I have one, and they work, but most people have had problems with Maximizer bolts). Some Venturi bolts have oversized OD's (causing cycling problems) and I typically find that delrin bolts usually cause more problems than they fix. Usually. NOTE: You should check the face of the delrin-bolt often. The high-pressure CO2 often causes the face to distort, which will brake paint.

            The bolt with the Pro-Comp v.3 is widemouth Delrin bolt, not a venturi. The technical information on the Pro-Comp v.3 makes it sound like the bolt is venturi, but it isn't. I have a Pro-Comp v.3 and the bolt has similar performance to my other TASO venturi.

             

         2. VENTURI/STARFIRE/WIDEMOUTH BOLTS
            I have these bolts grouped together because they are all virtually identical, except for the face.

            Venturi bolts are usually ALUMINUM, like the stock, but contain fewer o-rings. Venturi bolts try to reduce the turbulence behind the ball using the 'Venturi Effect,' providing better range and reduced ball breakage. Both TASO, NPS, APS, OTP, I&I, etc. distribute venturi bolts. Aftermarket bolts can run from $20-40, and often reduce/eliminate ball breakage. Quality control varies from company to company, so try to buy from well known companies. Try it on YOUR gun if possible before buying.

            Starfire bolts are similar to the Venturi-style bolts, with a star-shaped bolt face. For the most part, they are identical to the venturi style. NOTE: 'Real' Starfire bolts are only made by StarFire inc. Avoid the cheap copies on the market.

            Widemouth bolts have a VERY large blast hole. The theory is that the blast will evenly disburse onto the ball, lowering the chance of breakage. The majority of 'Widemouth' bolts are simply modified stock bolts.

             

         3. GRAPHITE COMPOSITE
            In theory, graphite-composite bolts have nearly 0 friction, meaning no-oil or o-rings needed. Paintball Dave's sells them (often with there PhazzeII hammer). Being the 'new' product on the block, its not thoroughly tested yet. Its not well known how the graphite- composite reacts with high-pressure or liquid CO2.

             

         4. NYLATRON BOLTS
            Nylatron bolts are very similar to delrin bolts. They're both a space-age 'polymer.' However, unlike the delrin bolts, the nylatron does not distort the way that delrin does under high-pressure, so they brake less paint.  NOTE: They tend to cost more.

             

         5. STOCK BOLTS
            A word about the stock bolt. The stock bolt's biggest benefit is also its biggest drawback: its o-rings. The 4 orings on the stock-bolt allow the VM to feed very fast because VERY LITTLE CO2 goes into the feed elbow when firing. At the same time, most bolt problems come from the bolt's o-rings (bloating/cracking). Another drawback is the flat face of the bolt. Most aftermarket bolts have concave faces to reduce ball-breakage. With all that in mind, having an air-smith modify your stock-bolt will usually make it as good as any aftermarket bolt.

             

      4. HAMMER
         
         1. Stock Hammer
            The STOCK hammer on the VM is FINE for the most part. It is made from solid stainless steel. It is very heavy, which makes for very reliable feeding/cycling. However, the heavy weight makes for slow cycling and inefficient CO2 use. The stock hammer can be modified to cycle faster by drilling holes into it (lengthwise), but velocity will have to be increased to make up for the lighter hammer.

             

         2. PhazzeII
            This is the most common aftermarket hammer, made by Paintball Dave's. Early versions of the PhazzeII were chromed stainless. Is was assumed that a chromed stainless bolt would retain all the benefits of the stock bolt, but also cycle faster. Later versions of the PhazzeII lightened (slightly) chromed stainless hammers (without 'bumpers').

             

         3. Maximizer
            This is an unusual hammer from Cooper-T. The Maximizer is made from machined aluminum and is incredibly light. The benefit of this is a theoretical cycle speed faster than a mag. The downside is that the valve needs to be drilled out to get velocity up to 300fps, and it will jam easily. Unlike other hammers, the Maximizer includes an external velocity adjuster. Also unlike other hammers, the Maximizer is NOT a drop in kit. In order to use it, the valve needs to be drilled, the sear needs to be sanded (or it will scar the aluminum hammer), and a hole needs to plug (for the velocity adjuster).

             

         4. Misc.
            For the most part, aftermarket hammers fall in 3 categories: 1- Chromed solid steel, 2- Chromed drilled steel, and 3- Hybrids (Steel w/ aluminum inserts). The only real difference with hammers is there weight. If you want reliability, go with the heavier hammers (or even stay with the stock). If you want performance, go with the lighter hammer, but be prepared to modify your valve.

             

         5. Pro-Comp v.3 Hammer
            The hammer with the Pro-Comp v.3 is made of brass and Delrin. From the end that strikes the valve to the piont that the sear catches is brass. The rest is Delrin. Its is an interesting combination and works well.

             

      5. MAIN SPRING
         
         1. ProShot kit.
            The kit replaces the stock VM spring with an AUTOMAG spring behind the HAMMER (instead of behind the bolt). The kit reduces recoil and wear on internal parts. Plus, the kit also allows for external velocity adjustment by adjusting spring pressure. The kit is available from TASO for ~$25. (If you have an automag spring, look in the Homebrew section for a homemade ProShot kit).

             

         2. Pro-Comp v.3 Spring
            The Pro-Comp v.3 includes a new spring behind the hammer. It is not an AutoMag spring and is not adjustable like the ProShot. The spring and hammer are actually intergrated into one unit. The new spring reduces recoil A LOT, almost completely. The first time I shot my VM with it, I was absolutely amazed.

             

   5. EXTERNALS

       

      1. POWERFEED
         The purpose of the powerfeed is to allow for faster feeding of paint from the loader into the breech by making use of exhaust CO2. On a STOCK VM this is NOT USEFUL, as it cycles much to slowly to make use of the blowback effect. However, many custom VMs can cycle very fast, faster than the loader can feed, requiring a powerfeed to prevent ball chopage. Some people argue that POWERFEEDS were designed for 'mags and simply don't work on VMs. But many others say different. If you can fire your VM faster then it can feed, get a POWERFEED, if it doesn't work, send it back. Pro-line makes both a VM powerfeed and a UNIVERSAL powerfeed (which fits on the VM and is $20 cheaper!). POWERFEEDS run ~$25.

         (Now for my opinion.) I have never seen a VM powerfeed that worked. The problem is that it doesn't line the balls in the correct 45degree angle (like in the automag PF). As a result, it actually slows down the rate of feed. Plus, if your bolt orings are bad, you will get the 'popcorn' effect from the powerfeed. The exhaust CO2 will actually PUSH the balls into the loader. Instead of a powerfeed, you are better off to have holes drilled into the feed block. This will allow for faster firing without the 'popcorn' affect.

          

      2. GRIP
         The VM uses the BASIC M-16 Lonestar grip and will accept ANY aftermarket grip designed for LONESTAR grips. This includes RAM-LINE grips and 'European' style grips at around $10. .45 grips and IVORY grips are around $50 and may require special adapters. Keep in mind that different grips use different style bottom lines. A bottom line designed to fit on a stock M-16 Lonestar grip, will NOT fit on a custom .45 grips. (Though, .45 grips take the well known mag/cocker style 'duck bill' bottom line.)

          

      3. SIGHTRAIL
         The VM comes with NO SIGHT RAIL (except MAGNUM and EXC). Some aftermarket sightrails SLIDE on, while others require drilling/tapping. If you want to use a sight, you need a sightrail (or DUCKTAPE, which I have also used). Most are around $10-20. Keep in mind that the feed-block gets in the way of most sights and a raised sight rail is often needed.  Raised sight rails are usually designed to attach to the existing sightrail, meaning that a VM owner would have to buy both to use some sights.

          

      4. SIGHTS
         (see iii). Fancy hunting scopes look nice, but are of little use to a paintball gun IMO. Any scope/sight that allows for quick sighting is fine. This includes point sites ($15), dot sights ($30-100), and Armson sights (~$80). The ADCO Square-Shooter and model 2000 are highly recommended.

          

      5. FIELD STRIP SCREWS
         The VM needs to be field striped very often. Unfortunately, the VM has MANY screws. Using field strip screws allows the screws to be taking off with the fingers very quickly. The Magnum comes with this and worth the ~$10. On behalf of all the techs that work on VMs, PLEASE BUY FIELD STRIP SCREWS.

          

      6. ELBOW
         Those stock brass elbows are HORRIBLE. Pro-team and Armson make quality aftermarket elbows (that DON'T REQUIRE DUCK-tape to stay on!). Aftermarket elbows are a MUST when using LARGE bulk loaders. (Though, some COME WITH elbows.)

          

      7. LOADERS
         
         1. Standard
            A standard 'non-motorized' loader is fine for a VM. The heavy hammer creates enough recoil to keep the loader feeding fast enough to keep up with most people. The only time a standard loader will be inadequate is if the internals are lightened and cycling speed is increased. If this is the case, go with a motorized loader.

             

         2. Motorized
            If you do have lightened internals and/or increased cycle rate, then a motorized loader is recommended. Motorized loaders contain a device that senses when the loader is jammed, and automatically unjams it.  Motorized loaders run from $50 to $125.

             

         3. Turbo-Loader
            The Turbo-Loader is a special loader specifically designed for the VM. The turbo-loader is very similar to a stock loader, except that it has a small hose that runs from the loader to the small hole behind the feed-block. What this does is allow excess CO2 to be channeled into the loader to keep the balls unjammed. In theory, this is a very good design, but I've heard that it tends to break balls in the feeder.

             

      8. STOCKS
         With the m-16 (lonestar) GRIP, it is difficult to get a stock that will fit a VM. Because of this, most people run a bottom-line or back-bottle and use the bottle as a stock. However, there are 3 stocks available that -cannot- be found on ANY OTHER paintball gun that attach directly to the VM.

         The first is the CAR-15 stock. The CAR-15 3-position adjustable stock, a direct copy of the stock found on the military-issue M16 Carbine, is made mostly of a synthetic material of comparable strength to high-grade plastic. It provides for maximum support and range of adjustability while retaining structural integrity without excessive weight (~8 oz., or 1.1 kg). The four inches of travel over three positions should accommodate the shooting preference of players of any physical stature. The stock attaches to the receiver via a metal assembly the same size as the lower rear cylinder and has the appropriate mounting holes machined. Before purchasing, keep in mind that this stock may not be compatible with certain aftermarket hammers and spring/cocking-kits. It is available from I&I and Taso for ~$35.

         The second is the THOMPSON stock. This wooden stock is the same used on the Infamous 'Tommy' gun rifles and makes the VM look like a mid-east terrorist weapon. Like the Car-15 stock, the 'Tommy' attaches to the 2 holes on the back of the VM. It is available from TASO for ~$35.

         The third is the SKS stock. This is a folding fiberglass stock that attaches to the rear of the VM (like the previous 2). It is called the 'SKS' stock because it is made from actual SKS folding stocks (which were illegalized in the crime bill) and modified to attach to a VM. I&I is having a sale on them for ~$50.

         Keep in mind that the Car15, Tommy, and SKS stock are all 'military' style stocks. If you are worried about the image of paintball, these might not be the best stocks to get. However, I enjoy the fact that these stocks are only available to VM owners.

         If you have a DUAL-BOTTLE adapter, but DO NOT need the rear adapter, SMART PARTS makes an expensive STOCK that fits in the REAR C/A adapter for ~$50-90 (designed for 'mags, but works fine for VMs). Some versions also have a Quick-Disconnect on the side to allow the use of a remote while using the STOCK.

         Also, if you switch to a .45 style grip (or have a VM-EXC), you can use -ANY- stock designed for 'Mags and 'Cockers. Occasionally I see a wire stock that uses the m-16 grip, or the 2 holes in the back, but I was unable to find a company that sells them. :(

          

      9. SIDE RAILS
         Airgun Dynamics might be coming out with light side rails. Besides being ugly, the stock side rails can break (like mine) and being able to get replacements is good to know.

          

      10. FRONT ASA
          Airgun Dynamics might also be coming out with a new front ASA. It is made of aluminum and is 2 ounces lighter than the stock one. Plus this one will be recessed and not stick out like the stock ASA.

           

      11. FEED ADAPTOR
          Airgun Dynamics might be coming out with yet another upgrade (these guys have been busy). It is a replacement feed adaptor that is lighter and will let you sight down the gun without obstruction like the stock feed block.

           

   6. MISC

       

      1. RATE OF FIRE.
         There are 2 basic ways to increase the VMs cycle rate. First is lighter INTERNALS (see above), second is a better trigger. The VM trigger is slow, complicated, and tends to break down. For a trigger job, I recommend that the trigger be sent to a professional, as it is very easy to break (I KNOW, I have broken 2!). A trigger job usually includes a lighter pull spring and a block behind the trigger. Trigger jobs are around $30.

          

         1. Double 'FIRE' Trigger
            Another option is the Double Trouble, double trigger (like the AUTO-RESPONSE on the Automag). This trigger does work, but trigger pull is long and uncomfortable. I am told that the .45 grip makes the pull more comfortable. Either way, a powerfeed is a must. The DOUBLE TRIGGER is currently $120, which is to much for most VM users. Once the price drops and I hear better results, I'll recommend it. (NOTE: as of 10/03/98 Double Trouble triggers are VERY rare. Put that $120 probably doesn't apply any more.)

             

         2. Double 'Shoe' Trigger
            The 'double trigger' shoe is becoming popular. Basically, its just a trigger shoe that allows you to use 2 fingers to pull the trigger instead of one. The reasoning is that two fingers have more strength than one and thus can pull faster. The 'Double-Trigger' shoe has never been proven to work, however, the VM is the ONLY gun that doesn't need 'machine' work to use one. Smart Parts sells them for ~$30.

             

         3. Carter-Trigger
            I hear on the grapevine that Carter is working on Drop-In custom trigger for the VM. Last I heard, it was 'still in progress.'

             

         4. Pro-Comp Trigger
            The Pro-Comp v.3 includes a free trigger upgrade that reduces trigger pull by about half. The trigger pull is significantly shorter than stock. However, following some of the trigger shortening techniques in this FAQ will give you similar results.

             

      2. WEIGHT.
         I remember hearing people complain about the weight of a custom PGP. The VM is HEAVY, but not unbearable. I ran my VM on two 20oz's for about a year, but I am a big guy. Fortunately, there are 2 options to weight reduction on a VM. One simple, one complicated. The easiest is using a remote, which takes a couple pounds off the weight. To reduce any more weight will require MACHINE work. PRO-COMP, ABC paintball, and Palmer all do great work. They trim a couple more pounds of weight from the VM, making the VM resemble a pro-master. Lots of people have their VMs redone by CARTER MACHINE (That SILVER Youngblood gun). Note, Carter doesn't reduce any weight, in fact, he adds more. But they look cool (I have one). Custom work can range from $50-350.

         If you don't want to desecrate your VM with machine work, there is a CUSTOM body available. The VMX is a replacement body for the VM. It's made from 'durable' plastic, and makes use of existing VM internals (much like 'mag and 'cocker F/X bodies). I have heard that many people have problems with their internals fitting into the VMX, while others LOVE it. There have been reports of bodies cracking also. From what I have heard, there is a new version of the VMX redesigned to fix the old problems. The new version is apparently made from metal, comes with a built-in vertical line, and all the valve holes are guaranteed to fit. The new version strips with one thumb-screw, and is as durable as the original VM. The STOCK VM trigger, and Double TRIGGER have to be modified to fit the VMX body (cut with a hacksaw), but most other upgrades fit with no problem.

          

      3. Pro-Comp v.3
         Airgun Dynamics released (Feb 98) the Pro-Comp v.3 total conversion kit for VMs. The kit includes the lower bolt, main spring, and rear plug, which are one component. The lower bolt is made of brass and Delrin. The upper bolt (also Delrin), velocity adjuster, and cocking knob are also integrated into one component. The kit also includes slot covers for the side since the cocking knob is relocated to the back.

         The kit is greatly reduces noise, recoil, reduces operating pressure (250 psi), and lightens the gun by a half pound. The kit, while worth the money for a serious player is probably too expensive for a rec player, costing $150.

         The kit also includes a trigger kit and is a free upgrade for those who have purchased the kit. It reduces trigger throw by about half.

          

      VM HOME-BREW

   7. POOR-MANS Custom-work
      If you're like me, you think you can save money by doing custom work yourself (and you probably don't read the manual for anything either). A lot of the CUSTOM work below was summarized because the full length description took up too much space. If you email me, I'll be happy to explain the idea's more fully.

       

      1. TRIGGER.
         The easiest thing you can do is drill a hole in the block behind the trigger, and tap a screw into it. This keeps the trigger from going back a certain distance. Next, if you are BRAVE/STUPID you can take the trigger apart, shave down the sear, and adjust the spring, making the trigger pull short and crisp. (I broke mine doing this). In fact, when I called Sheriden, as soon as I mentioned the word 'trigger', they simply said "send it in!" Keep in mind that its usually best to send the trigger to someone else. That way, if he breaks it, he buys a new one, not you! Also, the hammer cycles about 1/4" past the sear before it catches. For a slight increase in rate-of-fire, putting spacers behind the bolt shortens the cycle.

          

      2. GUN-WEIGHT.
         Apart from using a remote, you'll need access to  machining equipment, drills, and/or hacksaws (ie shop class). Keep in mind that reducing the weight of a VM could permanently damage the gun if you're not careful.  Unless you are a experienced machinist, I would skip this section and send you VM to a pro shop. Its possible to drill holes in your HAMMER (heavy steel), thus making it lighter and will also INCREASE THE CYCLE rate. However, this will decrease velocity and you will have to port the valve to adjust for this. A very popular mod is side shaving. The body of a VM has VERY thick walls (almost 1/2" thick!). A lot of weight can be lost by shaving the sides and top (like Palmer/Carter). I have personally chopped the rear 1.5 inches off of my VM.  I also had to chop the rear 1.5 inches off of my HAMMER to make adequate room for the spring-kit. Its also possible to TOTALLY chop off the C/A adapter (nearly a pound of aluminum) and thread a brass quick-disconnect to a remote (ie like PRO-COMP/PALMER).

          

      3. BARREL.
         If you have machining equipment, making BARRELS is fairly simple and cheap. Friends have made them in shop class and they all broke paint (but they also watch Beavis & Butthead). None-the-less, I have seen fancy brass rifled barrels made for about $5 at shop class. (It is possible.) Plus, you can also polish your stock barrel using a 12 gauge cleaning swab attached to a drill and a little oil.

          

      4. COLOR.
         Don't Laugh, I have seen anodization advertised at $100-150 in APG. If you look in your phone book, you can probably find a local gun-shop that will anodize, or even NICKEL plate, for $30-45. If you are just plain weird, you can spray-paint your VM. NOTE: this will eventually sweat off and be careful not to spray any inside the VM.

          

      5. C/A SETUP.
         If you have looked up hoses and fittings in your local paintball store or paint-mag, you might have noticed they are EXPENSIVE. If you want a cheap alternative, go to your local hardware store for BRASS 1/8" fittings. You'll find that high-pressure hoses, elbows, on/off valves, and misc. fittings usually cost 30% the price found at paintball stores. Make sure you get HIGH-PRESSURE brass fittings and don't get steel or aluminum.

          

      6. ADJUSTABLE AUTOMAG SPRING KIT.
         With a little ingenuity just about anything is possible. You can use an AUTO-MAG bolt spring instead of the stock VM spring behind the hammer. This nearly eliminates the VM from CHATTERING and eliminates most of the recoil. You basically take out your STOCK SPRING and replace the AUTOMAG spring behind the HAMMER. However, it won't fit unless you make some space. Remove the rear hammer bumper (the white thing) and run a 1" long bolt in its place. Its also possible to make an adjustable version which allows for velocity change by controlling spring pressure. (I made something like this for mine, which I still use).  Experiment with this.

          

      7. REAR COCKING KNOB/EXTERNAL VELOCITY ADJUSTER KIT.
         If you are tired of getting dirt inside your VM, you can install a rear-cocking knob by drilling a hole at the center of the block behind the hammer and replacing the screw in the hammer with a longer one that extends out the back. Then find something to cover the side-ports (after you remove the side cocking knob). Or, if you want external velocity adjustment, take out your hammer and drill a hole though the middle (there already is a hole 1/4" partly through the block). Then, tap it to 1/4-1/8" and insert a screw about 5" long (or 3 inches if you want a tourney legal internal velocity adjuster) into the hammer until the screw appears at the far end (the part that hits the valve). Then put the hammer back into the VM and test fire. Turning the screws control how far the VALVE opens.

          

      8. MORE EXTERNAL VELOCITY ADJUSTER KITS.
         Another trick for external velocity adjustment: the top bolt velocity screw is replaced with an allen screw at 90 degrees from the hole that lets CO2 in. Its set into the bolt to keep it from hitting walls of the receiver, but long enough and wide enough that it could close up the hole which lets in CO2. The gun then has two holes drilled into the side where the upper bolt velocity screw had just been placed, in order to get to the allen screw. One hole was in the uncocked position of the bolt, the other in the cocked position. It seemed to work well, but may have loosened during play much as the other allen screws tend to loosen all over the gun.

          

      9. PORTING THE VALVE.
         If you use a LIGHTENED hammer (or drilled the stock one), you may find that the MAXIMUM velocity is much lower than it used to be. One easy way to fix that is to REMOVE the valve and drill one of the 'clock' holes to some width slightly bigger than 12 o'clock. This does raise your velocity, but has side effects. If you are using an expansion chamber, you will get slightly less shots per ounce of CO2. However, if you are using a SIPHON tank, porting the valve will raise the shots per ounce. Also, cycling performance will be slightly less, since more CO2 is diverted behind the ball, instead of the hammer. You can improve cycling by drilling out the recocking hole (what the cup-seal rod sits in) to increase the recocking pressure). Also, if you plug up the other unused 'clock' holes with recessed allen bolts, it will slightly increase velocity and cycling performance. These 2 valve tricks will produce a valve similar to the MAGNA-PORT, and PRO-VALVES.

          

      10. INTERNAL EXPANSION CHAMBER
          Many people say that Expansion Chambers are cumbersome and get in the way. However, it is possible to put an INTERNAL Expansion Chamber INSIDE the VM itself. To do this, you need either access to machining equipment or a drill press. Behind the front ASA sits about 1 inch of solid aluminum. It is possible to machine that space out, to allow CO2 to expand before entering the valve. Plus, it will also catch any liquid CO2 before it enters the valve.  The actual machining is difficult, but I have seen it done before. Depending on how it is done, it will be completely invisible to an observer.

           

   Send me any "HOMEBREW" VM ideas if you have any.
   I'll add them to the FAQ 'cus I love 'em!!

2. OVERVIEW
   1. Various Custom Setups
      Often I get E-MAIL from people asking how they should customize their VM and I always tell them, "Any way you want." Look  at the custom picture section for examples of custom 'HOT-ROD' VM configurations

         

   2. Should I buy a VM?
      Before buying ANY paintball gun ask yourself, "how much do I plan on playing?" Also ask, "do I want the ability to upgrade in the future?"  For the NEWBIE, there are basically 5 choices of ENTRY level SEMIs: 1 Stingray ($100), 2: VM ($200), 3: PRO-LITE ($250), 4: F1/2 ($250), 5: SPYDER ($200). If you plan to play a couple times a year, with friends, perhaps the STINGRAY is best, but otherwise I would recommend the VM. Its cheaper than the PRO-LITE and F2 and can be UPGRADED much further than the SPYDER and is superior in many ways to all 4 guns. BEFORE you make the choice, go to your local field and ask to TRY some guns out. Different people have different opinions.

       

   3. General
      Information in this FAQ came from a variety of places. Much came from my 4 years of experience with a VM. Also Doug Seman, author of the original FAQ, David Bowden, Brian Quan, C. Allen Lee, Jay Tu, and whatever stuff I could swipe from WARPIG. The VM can range from the ENTRY LEVEL marker to the TOURNAMENT level mega-marker. This is the main reason why there are more VMs than any other paintball gun. Sure, the VM has its idiosyncrasies and may not be the gun for some, but it is a fine gun, made from one of the oldest paintball/bb gun companies. No matter how you look at it, the VM is a piece of QUALITY and HISTORY.

       

   4. LastWord
      In the last 9 years of playing paintball, I have used nearly every paintball gun ever made. Out of all of these, the VM remains my favorite. I still have the first one I bought 4 years ago (though it has been hacked up). My teammates think I am crazy, which I am. Plus, being my teams TECH-man/Air-Smith (guy who gets to fix all the guns), I have a rather good idea about a VM also. I would love any suggestions or ideas to be added/deleted.